Forest Canyon and Hayden Gorge (RMNP, Colorado)

Hayden Spire within Hayden Gorge

Trip date: August 17-19, 2019

Advertisement: One of the main reasons no one goes to Forest Canyon is because simply getting into it is technical.  The RMNP backcountry office suggests that you wade chest deep into water and pull yourself along the rocks in the deepest part of the canyon (see Lisa Foster's comment that "150 foot cliffs guard the entrance").  When I told them I would "figure out a scramble" they scoffed and almost refused to issue the permit.  It worked but is class 4 in places and is always rough terrain (although it did take two attempts due to minor injury...).  I've made some notes in the caltopo map that may be helpful if someone wants to try something similar.  

caltopo map here: ​https://caltopo.com/m/VF6M

I'd had my eye on a trip to Forest Canyon and into Hayden Gorge for well over 2 years.  The descriptions in Lisa Foster's definitive hiking guide to RMNP were hard to ignore:

"Forest Canyon is a deep valley carved by the Big Thompson River, which originates at Forest Canyon Pass.  It is undoubtedly one of the most pristine drainages in all of Colorado...There are no trails in Forest Canyon; it represents the most rugged terrain in RMNP.  Destinations within Forest Canyon are hard to reach...At the southeast end of the canyon, 150 foot cliffs guard the entrance.  At the northwest end, marshy, boggy terrain makes access difficult.  Once you are in the canyon, the true nature of this unspoiled forest wilderness reveals itself.  It requires bushwhacking through dense underbrush, scrambling over downed timber, and negotiating a route through thick unrelenting forest" (page 94).

"Hayden Gorge is a special place.  It is a remote, pristine, forested valley formed on the southeast by the steep northwest slopes of Stones Peak, and on the northwest by the ridge that connects Cracktop, Mt. Julian, and Terra Tomah Mountain.  Hayden Creek flows from lakes at the southwestern headwall of the gorge for 2.9 glorious miles to join the Big Thompson River in rugged Forest Canyon.  Though easily seen across the abyss of Forest Canyon from Trail Ridge Road, this unspoiled and trailless wilderness is preserved through difficulty of access as is preserved for only the most hearty nature lovers"  (page 97).

How could I resist?  The Strava Heat maps only confirmed what Lisa Foster had written:  no one goes to these places.  

Strava Heat maps showing popular trails and routes.

It's easier to see "low-use" areas with the satellite image turned off. Not 100% absence of tracks in both Forest Canyon and Hayden Gorge

First Attempt (Aug 10-11, 2019)

I actually made two attempts of this one on back to back weekends.  The first try did not go well.  I got a very late start and only made it a couple miles into Forest Canyon.  There was drenching rain that night that left everything soaked.   The next morning I slipped caught my shin on a sharp rock, leaving a deep and wide gouge.  Luckily it was in exactly the right spot to miss both bone and muscle, and didn't bleed too bad.  It was kind of like someone had dragged "molten" pinky across your leg (this is an ET reference).  

The only way I had to clean it was to irrigate it with filtered water. That night I put some Betadine salve on it but for all other dressings I just kept it moist with Vaseline.

When I got back to the car I stretched my tarp over a bush to let it dry while I looked for the nearest hospital to get my leg sewn up.  I was distracted and managed to drive off and it behind...major bummer.  ​The best part?  It had been too long between the injury and stitches so they couldn't do it.  Butterly bandages would have to do.  

2nd Attempt: Aug 17-19, 2019

Ominous beginnings at the Cub Lake TH

The terrain in the lower elevations of Forest Canyon is extremely rugged. Not only is it really rocky, but due to low elevation and moisture, it's also covered with criss-crossed downed trees that are completely covered by vegetation. Watch your step.

Both times I stayed on the northern side of the steepest part of the gorge.

The deepest part of forest canyon (Lisa Foster's "150 foot cliffs" from the opening description).

On my first attempt of this route I was traveling in terrain like this and fell in a 2.5 foot deep hole that was obstructed by tall grass. I whacked my face on the ground and somehow the stem of a plant went straight up my nose. I had a bloody nose for a month...

Usually I strongly dislike signs of civilization but this one was ok. I haven't see one of these since 2004-2005. Truly not many people go to Forest Canyon. (I packed this out).

After a while you reach Rasberry Park which is full of wild rasberries and I'd hoped...bears.  I've long found RMNP's bear policies excessive considering that I've almost never seen any sign of them whatsoever.  I'd probably seen 3-4 piles of bear scat in RMNP total before this trip.  Several years ago, on my attempt of the Mummy Kill route I ran into an off-duty RMNP ranger.  We talked about bear policy in the park and eventually they revealed that if I wanted to see a bear, Forest Canyon was my best bet.  I was hoping I'd finally see a RMNP bear but unfortunately I did not.  I do agree with the ranger's position that Forest Canyon is the best bet for bears: I saw 2 more piles of poop. 

​Andrew Rose has some good pictures of what Rasberry Park looks like on his blog: ​http://www.hikingrmnp.org/2014/07/marguerite-falls-black-pool-and.html

I had to use this tent because I had lost my tarp the week before. I forgot how small it is.

The Big Thompson River near the intesection with Hayden Creek (looking west).

Your feet will not stay dry in this swamp. I was headed for the cirque in the background on the left.

​I got turned around for a bit after exiting the swamp. 

​A compass was invaluable for this trip.

Lousy picture of a long beautiful cascade along Hayden Creek. I understand what Lisa Foster meant by Hayden Creek flowing for "2.9 glorious miles to join the Big Thompson River".

Lisa Foster opens the Hayden Gorge section of her book with "Hayden Gorge is a special place".  I totally agree.  Possibly the most spectacular place I have been in all of RMNP.  Unfortunately, most of my pictures of it did not come out very well.   

One of my favorite views of the trip. Looking back towards Hayden Gorge/Forest Canyon from the upper valley between Cracktop and UN 12,400'

Looking back towards Forest Canyon/Hayden Gorge from the talus field on the NW slopes of UN 12,400'

Note: the 2 slabs marked on this map are optional.

To avoid the snowfield on the more direct route to the saddle I took the talus field on the NW face of UN 12,400' to make it back to the continental divide. This photo gives the false impression that the talus was not actually car sized.

Smooth sailing once you reach the continental divide. Looking NW to Cracktop from UN 12,400'

Looking SE from UN 12,400' along the divide (my direction of travel).

Bighorn Flats and Eureka Ditch

Longs Peak (left) and Hallet Peak (right) catching the last bits of sunlight.

See, there are benefits of climbing onto the continental divide at 5pm in late summer (this was probably 7:30-8pm).

Once I reached the Flattop Peak trail the route got much simpler as I just had to follow trails all the way back to my car at the Cub Lake TH.  The remaining 10 miles would be 5000' feet of descent and in the dark.  I had a few podcasts left and I figured I'd finish around 11pm. 

I forgot about 700' of ascent to climb out of Mill Creek Basin (what would be mile 6 of the remaining 10). I'd been traveling at about 3 mph until then (probably still running on adrenaline) but once I reached the uphill section I  bonked hard.  I was completely out of gas.  I made the climb at a snail's pace and just opted to cowboy camp under a tree just off the trail and finish the remaining few miles early the next morning (monday).  Somehow I managed to still make it to work on time.  

The views in the morning are always good.